Half Way There

Photo; Faisal B.

Its mid summer, yesterday marking the half waypoint of my time here on project. I’m torn between two. Part of me that can’t wait to go back and the other part that never wants this to end. I would just love to hold on to the awe of new and thrill of adventure. One of the many things I want to take back with me is the relaxed attitude, characteristic of the Batswana life. I still want and need to be productive but also need to have faith and trust that everything will workout. I want to take the time to fully appreciate things. When you settle into a slower pace then the normal world wind of our everyday lives its true that your experience changes from that of a “point a to b” schedule to an enjoyment of this, of the moment, right now, that is your life. The sights, tastes, sounds and smells of everyday occurrences are enhanced with a gratifying meaning.

I want to take the time to speak with conviction and integrity the way Mr. Kashweka does. Each word meticulously and eloquently placed on his tongue. And the time to listen. To take the anxious rush of our everyday exchanges and conversations.

These are a few of the qualities I have recognized in Botswana so far and hope to imprint upon myself as I continue to reflect on the personal growth that we make everyday yet rarely take the time to observe.

Elevated Words

Photo: Faisal B.

A collection of quotes by our supervisor Ntema. Whether speaking normally, joking around, or bestowing philosophical wisdom upon us. He always keeps things around the office interesting…

He loves using the phrase “No progress” This usually comes up when we tell him what our plan is, what we are going to do, or what we have already done. I sure hope he actually means “No problem.”

When casually discussing the size of allocated plots:

“It is 5km by 5km and I can not walk that far unless I smoke a lot of shit.”

“An elephant charged me last night. I was just walking home there and it charged me”

“What did you do? Run?”

“Like Ussein Bolt. I think if he had been there I would’ve beat his record.”

“My people are the river people. And everything is from the river. Fish, water lillies and all aquatics. And the floods are coming and the flies come. And they do not relocate. They tell YOU to relocate. Because they adapt. This is how it is.”

“You laugh at me that I call him old man. But he is old. And he calls me young man. The trick is to be somewhere in the middle.”

“I’m kidding. Can I just say that in English? I’m kidding?”

“Um yeah you can say that, like a joke, yes.”

“No even if I’m an old man… I’m KIDdding. Like that hahah Kid-ingggg.”

… continues to laugh to himself while typing and quietly uttering kidding.

“Many ways to fool a cat”

“No one is perfect. Today you are a sinner and then you are forgiven and then a sinner again and then forgiven. It is just a process. So don’t worry. Just don’t worry.”

Conversation over surveying questions and gathering quantitative data:

“Sometimes you have to ask male or female. You see I could be Ntema. Put makeup on, nice and smooth. Look really pretty. But I am talking in a deep voice you see, and I have my nails and they are all nice with the whites and roses. Then you have to ask.”

After a Monday chat/briefing with Ntema, Susan, Lyndsay and I:

“I have closed the meeting with a prayer in my heart. And it is okay if you don’t hear it because God an and he knows that we are done.”

“You see now I am forgetting like a small baby man… What was that rude?”

“Nope, just funny.”

When giving us the keys to lock up the office:

“I can give you the key. But not my sole.”

“I was thinking about the roof and how it protected. Shielding me from the sunrays. And then I began to think how it was compared to life. Perhaps you do not realize it is there and its significance is neglected until it is gone.”

“There is time to rest when we are dead.”

Odd Etiquette

*note things are only what I have found based on experiences and differ from tribe to tribe, family to family and person to person.

-It is not rude to answer your cell phone during a meeting even if you are the one presenting. It is perfectly acceptable to take the call, have a conversation… “Oh hey hows it going?...dinner tonight, okay… okay… no way that’s really funny… cool okay… I will see you later.” And then continue on with your presentation.

-When talking on the phone no need to say goodbye, simply hang up abruptly. Air time is precious and expensive.

-There are three kinds of handshakes all of which I have awkwardly timed, mixed up or messed up at one point or another.

1. The friendly informal “whats up”: hold the persons hand, precede to have a thumb war while leading in and taping opposite shoulders.

2. The normal shake: three movements, first normal handshake, second shift hand to arm wrestling position, third back to first position.

3. Most formal greeting when meeting chiefs, community leaders or respected people: regular western handshake while holding elbow with opposite hand.

-Over all there is lots of hand holding. The hold on and don’t let go technique: basically the name says it all, hold the persons hand for the duration of the conversation. I still haven’t gotten used to this one and find myself wiggling my hand from their grip or unable to focus on the conversation.

-When eating the more grease on your fingers the better. Lick the chicken bones clean. If on a bus with no napkin it is okay to wipe it on your neighbors clothing.

-Depending on the family it is either totally okay or completely rude to leave food on your plate. When determining how to best tackle the enormous portion of palagee try and find out which one your host expects to see if the twenty minute eat team rule applys. Prepare for excruciating fullness.

-When eating dinner leave the table once you are done. It is considered rushing the others if you sit with them.

-Odd sounds. I’m not quite sure what is with this one yet. I used to think it was only our home stay mom who grunted embarrassingly loud and that perhaps it was only because she is old and in pain. Nope, assumption disproven. Colleagues at the office make the same noise.

Rasta Man

*Singing don’t worry bout a thing, cause every little things, gonna be alright

Our supervisor Ntema is quite the individual and when I say crazy I mean it in all the best interpretations of the word. Dreadlocks tied back in a loose pony tale. Pressed and collard shirts with half length colorfully patterned satin ties. Huge pearly white teeth gapped in the front, matching spaces top and bottom. A large voice and loud smile. Regular elevation “meetings”. Walking, tapping, singing to the rhythm of his own life. That is Ntema in the briefest form of what can not be explained. While it has taken me a while to understand him, and although I never fully will, I have developed a great amount of respect for him and am thankful to find myself in the presents of such an inspirational and intricately unique teacher.

Ntema commonly refers to himself in the third person as Rasta man. For example: “I don’t know why she be hating on the rasta man.” As he has informed me… The Rasta is not all about that what what. The Rasta is also an artist, a poet, a writer, a musician. To write of emotional and spiritual beauty. Because that is what is important. Not this. Not the outside. It is the beauty of the mind and of thoughts and you must actualize those thoughts into an entity. Initiate the process of action. That is the person. You don’t edit original talent.

*Singing this is my message to you you you.

Mans Best Friend

*Mathata following Lyndsay into the office

I found a friend – last night a dog followed me home. There are tons and tons of stray dogs here. Roaming the streets wild with glowing red eyes and untamed hair. They mostly do their own thing but are still intimidating when growling or in a bad mood. Its strange how they can sense that we don’t belong. I can feel their stares, same as the people we pass on the road, their barks echoing the curious Hellos. “Hey hey hello, what are you doing here?” it barked at me. Coming close and rubbing against my leg. Scared, I crossed to the opposite side of the highway thinking it wouldn’t cross, that the headlights of traffic would scare it away. Wrong. It followed and we walked home this way zigzagging back and forth across the road. The following morning the same dog was waiting at the gate as if for an appointment, he walked me to the gym and then all the way to the office paws on heals. He is strangely bold, unaware of social norms. He enters the office grounds and then follows me into the building, making himself comfortable on the doormat. Lyndsay and I decided to name him Mathata meaning “Problem” in Setswana. On the positive side, I no longer need to worry about walking home alone after dark. And just like that Problem became my solution.

A Magical Kingdom

Once upon a time there was a magical kingdom where there was nothing. And in the simplicity of nothing the beauty of the Earth sat in stillness. From this stillness peace was born and she reigned over the kingdom sharing in it with her sister happiness. They greeted the footprints of weary children. Welcoming them into the simplicity. But the footprints were not able to make a mark for they were only passing though and that was part of the magic. For eventually something found nothing and chased after him. More somethings poured in and the footprints grew heavier and larger. And then they walked away from the kingdom leaving imprints for others to follow. But we must remember that there is a magical kingdom where there was nothing.

Gold Plated Days

Long weekend on Kubu Island

*And the glass was not only half full. It was gold plated with a permanent refill.

This past weekend I ventured to Kubu Island in the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans for some more camping and hiking. An island surrounded by saltpans and honestly one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. A place where the magical imagination games we used to play as kids still exist, where songs are written and it is enough to just be. A simplistic freedom resting in the distance as far as you can see. Because I can’t to justice in my explanation here is the description given by the Lonely Planet Guide to Botswana and Namibia:

“The Sowa, Nxai, and Ntwetwe Pans collectively comprise the 12,000-sq-km Makgadikgadi Pans. During the sizzling heat of late winter, the stark pans take on a disorienting and ethereal austerity. Heat mirages destroy the senses as imaginary lakes shimmer and disappear, ostriches take flight, and stones turn to mountains and float in mid-air. Prospective drivers should keep in mind that saltpans can have a mesmerizing effect, and even create a sense of unfettered freedom. Once you drive out onto the salt, remember that direction, connection, reason and common sense appear to dissolve. Although you may be tempted to speed off with wild abandon into the white and empty distance, exercise caution and restrain yourself. You should be aware of where you are at all times by using a map and compass (GPS units are not foolproof)"

This is my new happy place. We all split and decided to walk in different directions along the pan. Walking this way in the vastness where you are surrounded by absolute nothingness and a silence so still you can hear your thoughts. The whole experience was so transcending and when not in awe at the beauty of the sun or stars, was smiling and laughing with the team. My face hurt cause I don’t think I stopped smiling all weekend.

With bravery and incredible tolerance for the other three-backseat drivers, Thomas challenged the opposite side of the road as we got to enjoy the comfort of having our own car for the weekend. Thomas’ home-stay dad Mots had lent us his 1998 Toyota Windom. After the fruitless car search of weekends past this in itself was quite the feat. We named her “Amantle” (Setswana for “something good”) she brought us that and so much more in smooth travel.

After not seeing a single check stop during our travels thus far, we were pulled over within the first five minutes of our journey. We were so lucky that Faisal (who knows how to drive on the opposite side, but failed to bring his license) last min decided it would be best not to risk it. And off we went… windows down driving dance party to Tik Tok. I defiantly didn’t picture myself road tripping this way through the African savannah but was loving every minute of it!

*Its not found on any map, true places never are

Driving past a diamond mine, we arrived in a small village where we were to pay for the campsite (all funds going to the community) and then continue the drive onto the saltpans… or so we had planned. The ranger took one look at our car and laughed…”yeah your not going to be able to get there with that.” He arranged for a truck to come pick us up and so we waited… and waited, and then we waited some more. I am getting used to this whole waiting game but even so we were all struggling to hold back frustrations as the afternoon turned to dusk and the truck finally pulled up. Hopping into the back we braced ourselves for a bumpy two-hour drive. Going over rocky hills and though deep sand it was clear that the car wouldn’t have made it. We sat huddling against the wind and listening to Thomas’s parental concern to dip, duck and dodge the thorny tree branches whizzing past us. The bush cleared and we found ourselves confronted with the immensity of the pans and painted sky of the setting day. And then the stars came out. And we sat in a silence of smiles. Riding hands above heads riding with the thrill of a rollercoaster. The wind was warm smelling of salty freshness and the landscape surrounding us flowing like an ocean in the darkness. We talked about the magnitude and content of living in this moment. That despite our earlier frustrations everything has a plan and we need to find the faith to enjoy the process of the universe working in its unknown and beautiful ways. Even though I have been told, “this trip will change me” I am always shocked when I realize how much it already has.

Thomas "ascending"

Sunset Yoga Over the Pan

Kubu Island is a national monument and a sacred sight for indigenous groups, predominately the San. These people believed God lived beneath the island’s giant rocks. Also an archeological

site, it is common to find artifacts such as arrowheads, cooking utensils and signs from the past life there. On one shore, there lies a stonewall that is thought to date back even further then 500 years ago, to the Great Zimbabwean Empire.

Camp was set up on the island our tent resting under the Baobob tree of Impala Camp 11. The story behind the Baobob tree is quite interesting, it was said that the tree mocked the Gods so they picked it up and turned it upside down. And so now even to day it stands, an upside down tree.

The fire was started and the boys began their meal to be judged in our Top Chef: Island Edition competition. The guidelines clearly set before our grocery-shopping trip was that each team would provide two meals, lunch and dinner within a set budget. The boys made grilled peri-peri chicken and a mixed vegetable salad followed by bear, banana boats and marshmallows (which are oddly strawberry flavored here). As delicious as their meal was they somehow failed to buy groceries for lunch…

Although they would never admit it, they didn’t stand a chance against Isabelle and I. The following day we provided cinnamon buns for breakfast (warmed by the fire), peanut butter sandwiches and bananas (to cover their lunch oversight) and then a dinner of garlic bread, whole grain cork screw pasta, tomatoes basil sauce, marinated and grilled zucchini, red pepper, mushrooms, onion, tomatoes and Russian sausage. Once again confirming that girls rule and a testimony to our over competitive nature. Stay tuned for Top Chef: Okavango Delta where the boys will attempt an unlikely comeback.

In the morning we got up to watch the sunrise enjoy some yoga and set off to explore the island and pan. Its strange that so far this is the best memory I will take back with me and one of the most difficult to find words for. Basically it was a great time. The Makgadikgadi Pans were once part of a giant lake that stretched over 60,000 sq. km. Approximately 10,000 years ago the lake evaporated, leaving behind a void of salt stretching the horizon. On the pan we walked and ran, all perception of time and space was lost. The ground was like an indoor track, soft and spongy making for a freeing barefoot experience. We looped the island, cart wheeled, did some rock climbing, lookout points, enjoyed the baobob fruit of rafiki, stood on pride rock, special places, followed by even more special moments, king of the castle, historical shrines, archeological sites, massive baobob trees, burnt to a crisp, high-fived, joked a lot, laughed constantly and returned to our camp for the previously described meal, beers and sunset over the salt. I think it was difficult for everyone to describe the mood. I will always remember sharing smiles and Thomas saying, “I am just so happy right now.” And so was I. There was no place I would rather be.

*Bots of Love

Around the fire that night we sang Oh Canada and campfire songs, shared stories and then ventured into the darkness through the bush and onto the pan. The four of us lay there under a blanket of stars. The vastness contributing to our giddiness of the moment. All I could feel was the others beside me… our laughter drifting into the night to be joined by that of the hyenas in the distance. A true testament that laughter is in deed contagious.

*The magnitude of greatness can't be captured, but we tried anyways

Photo credit to the talented Isabelle Jones, Faisal B and Thomas Parente. I can't wait for many more adventures to come!